Volendam and Edam

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Day Trip, Netherlands

I wrote previously about our visit to the little island of Marken. After wandering around we caught a ferry across the water to Volendam. It’s a traditional fishing town that’s now turned into a place people go to take old-timey photos (no one would do that with me this time!). It’s a cute place, though the amount of tourist-geared items gets overwhelming. We spent a short time wandering around and soon felt satisfied.

Not far away is Edam–like the cheese! Though apparently that name denotes a type of cheese, not where it’s from: lots of Edam is made in Germany, I learned. The town still holds a cheese market in the summers on Wednesdays, capitalizing on it’s name.

Other than cheese, Edam is really precious. Tiny, cobbled, a bit forgotten, it’s streets still bustle with townfolk, it’s bakeries are stocked with bread and pastries, and it’s bridges are full of bicycles. It was a completely adorable place. I think it’s my favorite of the Marken-Volendam-Edam trifecta.

Edam also has a town legend about a mermaid who washed onto their shore and stayed for awhile. Apparently mermaids were pretty picky creatures, so the fact that one stayed in their town was a source of pride for the Edammers–they took it as quite the compliment, and created a special plaque in the town square for the occasion.

I could skip Volendam next time, but I’d love to go back to Edam, maybe on a long bike ride some sunny day. If summer ever comes to Holland…

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Day Trip in Scotland

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Day Trip, edinburgh, Scotland

We reserved one day in Edinburgh to get out of the city, which I’m SO glad we did. The Scottish countryside was absolutely breathtaking, and it was such a joy to be driving through it. We used this company, recommended to us by a friend, and highly enjoyed it. Of course there were times I wished we were on our own schedule, but in exchange for that we really saw a lot. I’ve listed a few of my favorite below!

Yellow fields: The hills were dotted with wide fields of bright yellow–our driver said it was rapeseed, which is canola to us Americans. I LOVED those pops of color. We never found ourselves right next to it and outside the bus, so all I have are blurry photos of it, but I still loved it.

Forth Bridge: Just north of Edinburgh is the Firth of Forth. (A firth is the Scottish word for an inlet or fjord.) Across that water is the old Kingdom of Fife. Put all that together and you get to say that you’re crossing “the Firth of Forth to Fife.” Which is just fun in your mouth. The bridge opened in 1890, has never had to be repaired, and is still used for trains. Gorgeous!

Ancient Celtic Worship Site: Our tour guide knew where to find this secret special place, and pulled down a small country road to let us take a glimpse. This is an ancient pagan worship place, which is still used today. Next to the old staircase we found Celtic carvings, and the tree stump holds offerings of people who’ve come to pay respects.

St Andrews: Our main destination for the day was the university town of St. Andrews, famous for being the birthplace of golf, and for being the place where Will met Kate. (Aww.) I actually felt kind of guilty for being in the birthplace of golf, since I’ve never been in the least bit interested, but members of my family are crazy about it! Do I buy them postcards, or is that just rude? “I’m here and you’re not, and I’m not even enjoying it like you would!” We dutifully took some photos and peeked inside the golf museum.

My favorite part of St. Andrews was the ruins of the old cathedral, which stand empty and open, grass growing in between.

Efteling, the Happiest Place

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Amsterdam Blogs, Day Trip, Netherlands

Happy Summer! I thought I’d take this day to show some pictures of one of my favorite day trips we’ve taken, to the magical theme park of Efteling. Back when our friend Kerry was visiting we took a train and bus ride down south for a roller-coaster-and-cotton-candy-filled day.

Efteling is one of the oldest theme parks in the world: it opened in 1952 (before Disneyland!). Walt Disney toured Europe’s parks before opening his own, and many people claim he took a lot of inspiration from Efteling. The connections are pretty clear: Efteling has different ‘worlds,’ each with a different theme and plenty of corresponding rides. It’s also overrun with screaming children, long lines, lots of junk food, and a few dioramas.

The Efteling lake with the “Flying Pagoda”

The park isn’t huge, and we felt like we did it justice in one day, even getting multiple rides in. Our favorite ride, by far, was Joris en de Draak (Joris and the Dragon), a double wooden roller coaster. The two tracks run parallel almost the whole way, meaning you get to race your fellow riders. We rode it three times, and won every. single. time. Clearly we’re amazing.

Waiting in line for Joris en de Draak

Other fun rides included the Flying Dutchman (of course!) due to a section of terrifying complete darkness followed by an immediate drop, and the fast metal Python. Besides the rides, my favorite part was the cotton candy! It’s called suikerspin in Dutch, which means ‘sugar-spin.’ Figuring there were three of us we ordered the supersuikerspin and were awarded with the biggest cotton candy stick I’ve ever seen! Which we promptly devoured in five minutes flat.

We also took a short stroll through the Fairytale Forest, or Sprookjesbos, where we saw Little Red Riding Hood, Sleeping Beauty, Mother Hubbard in her shoe, and more. One display including a gentlemen with a very long neck, who’s story I’m still unclear on. Must be a Dutch one? Has anyone heard that one in English?

His neck ‘grew’ while we watched!

Efteling was designed almost entirely by the famous Dutch illustrator Anton Pieck, popular for his nostalgic, romantic, fairy-tale drawings. They did such a good job bringing the illustrations and characters to life that stepping into the park is almost like entering one his drawings. It was an exhausting, fun day that was totally worth it! If you have an extra day in the Netherlands, with or without kids, I highly recommend Efteling.

Whiskey, or, Birthday Event #2

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edinburgh, Scotland

Our second requirement for celebrating Jesse’s 30th (golden!) birthday, was whiskey. We started with the Whiskey Experience.

Right on the Royal Mile, the Whiskey Experience is pretty touristy and starts off with a kind of kitschy ‘barrel ride’ through whiskey production. But, as someone who didn’t have a clue before, I did come away knowing a lot more about making whiskey, which was pretty interesting. And it comes with a tasting, a keepsake glass, and a peek at the world’s biggest whiskey collection (over 3,300 bottles).

I did not know that whiskey must be aged in a previously-used barrel, like bourbon or sherry. And that all of it’s flavor comes from the aging process, which is why you get expensive whiskies aged 70+ years. I also didn’t know that during aging a small percentage is lost–poof, gone–and this is called “the angel’s share.”

Scottish whiskey, or scotch, is from Scotland, while Irish whiskey is slightly different (and from Ireland, of course), and bourbon is American whiskey (also different). Single-malt scotch comes comes from one distillery and one barrel, while blended whiskey (the most popular on the market) is a blend of many kinds.

We also visited Tullibardine Distillery on a later day, which was a fun glimpse of a small distillery. I’d wager, though, that Jesse’s favorite moment was at The Bow Bar, where he found his holy grail: a 30-year aged whiskey, like himself. He’d been talking about getting it ever since we planned the trip, to anyone who would listen. We chose a nice old pub, got ourselves some drams, and sat down to watch the world go by for a bit. Cheers, Prost, or, if you’re in Scotland, sláinte!

Jesse’s is on the left, a Glenfarclas 30 yr old whiskey.

Barrel art promising to wait 11,000 nights and days, which equals 30 years.

Climbing Arthur’s Seat

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Day Trip, edinburgh, Scotland

It’s hard to pick a favorite day in Scotland, but this day was one of the best. Everyone we talked to said we needed to go to Arthur’s Seat in Holyrood Park–an extinct volcano, it rises up next to the city like a protecting wing. “Climb it.” Everyone said. “You won’t regret it.”

Though our Netherlands-legs almost didn’t make it (biking uses different muscles than hiking, apparently), we discovered that they were all telling the truth. It was spectacular. Gorgeous. Wild and impressive. And it had some great views.

At the top! Success!

There are several paths up, and a few different destinations, ranging from relaxed strolling to vigorous hiking. We aimed all the way to the top, so it was a bit vigorous! But seriously–that countryside, that bright green dotted with duksy brown and golden yellow, those magnificent views of the city surrounded by water, the fresh wind in my face… it was gorgeous.

 

We went up one side and down the other, ending the hike in Duddingston, an old village nestled between the mountain and a loch. The Sheeps’ Heid Inn slaked our thirst and let our legs rest, and the sun peeked out as we left. What a lovely day.

Finding Scottish Tweed, or, Birthday Event #1

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edinburgh, Scotland

Jesse’s 30th birthday was at the end of May, so for the big celebration he got to choose a place to travel to, what he wanted to do there, and what kind of present he got. You already know he chose Scotland! He had two goals there, and one was to find himself a fine Scottish tweed suit (so he can look the part of an English professor). He did some research before we left, and we spent most of the first day looking in different tweed shops (there were a lot.)

We finally wandered into Walker Slater, which turned out to be the winner! The assistants there were extremely helpful as Jesse perused and tried on jacket after jacket. When he decided on one they even marked it for some alterations, which were finished in time for our departure.

Tweed is a traditional Scottish material woven from rough wool, often having an herringbone and heathered effect. Harris tweed is the most well-known brand, but the fabric is a little bit thicker, and Jesse ended up choosing a lighter style with a more modern fit. Ta-da!

He was wooed into getting the pants, too, so as to have the full suit effect. Because what’s the sense in only have a tweed jacket? (He’d like me to point out that these shoes will not be worn with the suit, normally.)

I’d call our suit-hunt a smashing success! Does he remind anyone else of Dr. Who? Sonic Screwdriver not included.

Scottish Treats

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beer, edinburgh, Scotland

I just love the way that a location’s food is tied into the entire culture. There’s no better way to get a true sense of a place than to eat up! We were on a tight budget in Scotland, but we did manage to indulge in several delicious items. Of course there were the fish’n’chips!

And a traditional hog roast sandwich:

After days of walking, we refreshed ourselves with lots of fine Scottish ale. Pints and pints of it! Imperial pints, too, which are an entire 20 oz. A whole meal, right there in a glass. British/Scottish ales are drastically different from the Belgian ones we find in Amsterdam, so it was treat to try all of these.

But the most memorable thing we ate was haggis. You’ve heard of haggis, right? It’s usually the food that’s used to describe something a normal person would never eat, along the lines of monkey brain. The funny thing in Edinburgh, though, was that every restaurant offered it! It wasn’t some crazy specialty, it was actually a normal staple. It’s made with a sheep’s offal (heart, liver, lungs), minced with onions, oatmeal, spices, salt, and simmered in broth. (I had to look that up afterwards, because while we were there I refused to know!) It’s served with traditional ‘neeps and tatties,’ mashed turnips and potatoes.

The middle one is haggis, and the sides are ‘neeps and tatties.’

Jesse was brave enough to order haggis and I was brave enough to try a tiny bite. Then another. And another. And before I knew it, I was saying, “Hey, don’t eat all of it, I want another bite.”

Friends, it was good. Really tasty. Savory, perfectly seasoned with a pleasant texture, it was a delicious surprise. I could have eaten more! In fact, we did, when we went back later and ordered the haggis nachos! (Because when else in your life do you get to eat haggis nachos? Seriously.)

The things you learn traveling. What an eye-opening, tastebud-pleasing world it is!

Edinburgh, Scotland

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edinburgh, Scotland

The minute we started walking around Edinburgh, we realized what we had been missing in the Netherlands all these months: hills.

“That view right there is more beautiful than the entirety of the Netherlands,” Jesse joked when we saw the castle on it’s craggy perch. (Okay, he might not have been joking. But I find Holland quite beautiful in it’s own right!)

Medieval Edinburgh is built on a spiny stretch of rock that starts at the castle and runs gradually down the Royal Mile to Holyrood Palace. The rest of the city falls to either side, the small windy streets giving way to well-spaced Georgian New Town. With lots of upscale boutiques and cafes, New Town is the place to be seen. Older, twistier, and a bit more touristy is the Old Town and the Royal Mile.

Snaking out from the Royal Mile are dozens of hidden alleyways and squares called ‘closes.’ Originally small streets or entryways, the buildings around them were eventually built up so much that the closes became enclosed. They are now dark, eerie places where ghost stories and urban legends abound. Lots of companies offer tours, and I partly wish we had taken one since I feel like that’s such a huge part of Edinburgh. But our budget dictated other things, so we went without. (Probably best, since I don’t do well with ghost stories!)

I learned all sorts of things, like how Edinburgh is pronounced “Edin-burra,” and how the Flodden wall was built around the city to keep the English out. I also developed a huge love of the Scottish accent, and have since demanded Jesse to practice. Constantly.

Scotland history is a bit fascinating to me, and I indulged in completely. Audio tours in the castle told stories of Mary, Queen of Scots, of Bonnie Prince Charlie, of Robert the Bruce and yes, William Wallace. We gazed out from the castle walls to the hills and waters surrounding the city, fascinated by the long, bloody road that led to this sunny day.

Oh, and we also saw this cafe, which claims to be the place J.K. Rowling (who lives in Edinburgh) wrote the first books of Harry Potter. So, if you’re not into history, there’s another claim to fame for you!

Back Home

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home

We’re back from Edinburgh! It was such a lovely trip, and I can’t wait to share photos and stories from all the things we did and tried.

Amsterdam welcomed us back with gray skies and rain…sigh. But after the twisty streets of medieval Edinburgh, the regal houses and placid canals of this city were a calming sight. And after a long day of travel it’s always nice to be home.

I threw out old flowers and bought new this morning–it’s a habit I’ve given up fighting. The buds were closed at the store, but once I got them in water at home they immediately relaxed and spread out. Just like all of us, I think. Traveling is so stimulating and exciting, but there’s nothing like your own little corner of home to let you truly relax.

I’m spending a day doing just that (while admiring my blooms) before going through all our photos! Can’t wait to share them!

A Stitchy Trip to Pirmasens, Germany

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embroidery, etsy, finished project

I’ve really enjoyed stitching maps for the shop as a way to combine travel and handmade. I usually concentrate on places I’ve been but a few weeks ago I was contacted for a custom order of somewhere I’d never even heard of: Pirmasens, Germany. The customer wanted a map of the little German town for her mother-in-law, who grew up there. What a sweet gift!

I did some research to familiarize myself with the town before stitching, and ended up falling for it. The next time I’m in southern Germany with time to kill, I’m heading to Pirmasens! Near the border of France in Rhineland, Germany, it’s a small city with a population of 40,000. Their claim to fame is the manufacturing of shoes: they even have a shoe museum!Besides that, it looks like a thoroughly liveable city, with cute old buildings, street markets, lots of events, plenty of parks. That dotted yellow line on the map is a pedestrian-only zone passing shops, cafes, squares, and historic buildings. What a nice place to stroll on a sunny day! (All images below are from Pirmasens city website.)

The map ended up being 8×10″ in nice dusky colors: maroon, mustard, and forest green. I love how it turned out–what a great virtual trip to Germany!

Have you ever been to Pirmasens?