Flowers in Holland

Tags

Amsterdam Blogs, Haarlem, Netherlands

Sometimes I feel like the weather is the single most influential thing on my mood. Yesterday morning it was pouring rain and I felt completely unmotivated. Then it stopped and the sun did it’s best to peek out from the clouds all afternoon. And guess what? I felt so much happier! I hate admitting that something I have no control over can affect me so much.

At least all this rain is giving good fodder to the flowers in the city. We’re planning a visit to the famed Keukenhof Gardens in a few weeks to see the tulips, but until then I’ve been spying plenty of blooms in the corners of the city.

On Saturday night we went to Haarlem and caught the tail end of the Bloemencorso–the Flower Parade! Night fell before we saw it (which means my pictures aren’t so great) but each float was highly impressive and smelled wonderful as it passed by. And the highlight was a marching band ON BIKES. Drums, tubas, flutes, everything, even while moving. I love it: so Dutch!

This week looks to be a slow, rainy one. I’m saving up money and energy for Queen’s Day next week (April 30!), and then the Saturday after that my parents arrive for a week of Dutch fun!

More Winter Fun

Tags

beer, Day Trip, Haarlem, Netherlands

We’re still running wild and having fun in the snow! Before we both buckle down and try to be productive, we had one more day of frolicking in winter’s white beauty. On the streets the snow has long ago turned to blackened mush, but outside the city it remains pristine and welcoming. How can one resist?

Nationaal Park Zuid-Kennemeerland is a swath of sandy dunes and beach scrub between Haarlem and the North Sea, a mere 20 minutes away from the city. It was scheduled to be not only the last sunny day for awhile but also the last day cold enough to keep the ice frozen, so we passed hundreds out skating on the canals.

Our goal was a nice hike, though, so we found the entrance to the park and headed out on an exploration. Of course, right away, we came across a frozen lake. A little ice-skating track had been set up, with families taking full advantage. We left the path and walked right across the lake instead of all the way around. So daring!

The path wandered through patches of trees, sandy dunes, scrub, and snow, taking us far away from the crowded streets of Amsterdam. Who knew this was so close to us? And who knew cows were ever this hairy?

We finally reached the beach, and I experienced my favorite moment of cresting a hill to be welcomed by the blue sea. We made it! Frozen sand encrusted the beach even though the waves kept rolling. The sun shone bright as it lowered in the sky. Life was good.

After a good 8km hike, we rewarded ourselves with local Haarlem beer at Jopenkerk brewery, toasting our sore feet and cold bodies. Hooray for winter fun!

{If you’re interested in going, we took the train from Amst Centraal to Overveen, the stop past Haarlem. The entrance to the park is a short walk away from station, but check a map–there aren’t many signs. The park has maps and routes posted, and we chose to walk to Cafe Parnassia, about 5km. Then we walked down the beach to Bloemendaal an Zee, and took bus 81 back to Haarlem! About 8km in all. Not bad.}

A Day in Haarlem’s Sunshine

Tags

Day Trip, Haarlem, Netherlands

The city of Haarlem was once one of the biggest cities in the Netherlands, and the center of tulip growing and tulip mania, beer brewing, and more.
In the 18th century power and size shifted to Amsterdam, and Haarlem became more of a cuter, smaller, neighbor. Only 20 minutes away by train, it makes a lovely day trip.

On a sunny Sunday morning not much was going on in the town–most shops were closed, most restaurants shuttered. We spent our time wandering around the narrow streets and canals, then relaxing at a restaurant by the water.

We did take a fantastic tour of the big windmill in town (more on that later!), but spent most of our time soaking up the sunshine. It’s blue-sky days like this that I’m storing away for later.

Since our neighbor is so close by we didn’t stress ourselves trying to fit everything in. There was a table in the sunshine, food to nibble, and boats to watch on the canal. A perfect relaxing day with a friend.
When I come back to Haarlem, I’m heading to the Corrie ten Boom house, the giant cathedral, and the Jopenkerk to try Haarlem’s local beer brand, Jopen. And in the springtime the whole countryside between Haarlem and Leiden will bloom into tulips. For now we admired the way the yellow leaves looked floating in the canals, and searched for pannekoeken (pancakes).

This summer I actually read two books set in Haarlem. The Black Tulip by Alexandre Dumas centers around a contest from the Horticultural Society of Haarlem for the perfect tulip specimen. With romance, intrigue, a prison break, chases, and one black tulip, it’s a short and fun read.

The other was Confessions of an Ugly Stepsister by Gregory Maguire (of Wicked fame). It’s an excellent re-telling of Cinderella, set in Haarlem during the Golden Age of painters, tulip growers, witches, and spoiled little children. The books are totally different, but both are fun glances at an historical town.

Sarah and I, enjoying Haarlem's canals.